NZ14 Lake Tekapo

Wednesday, 02 December 2015

Akaroa, a French enclave, reached via winding roads at high altitude. The weather was very hot, and a woman in a café in Christchurch simply said, referring to the weather: “Go to the beach.” And yes, I cursed the odd hill or two that day on the partly unpaved roads to Pigeon Bay. The campsite was about 75 meters above the town. 105 km today.

Nelson

Akaroa is a charming harbour town on the Banks Peninsula in New Zealand’s South Island, famous for its French heritage, picturesque setting, and dolphin encounters. The name means “Long Harbour” in Kāi Tahu Māori, and the area was shaped by the remnants of a Miocene volcano. Just 84 kilometres from Christchurch, Akaroa's scenic hills and sheltered waters once attracted whalers, and today they draw visitors seeking a peaceful escape. Its unique historical blend stems from both Māori traditions and European ambitions—particularly the rare French attempt at colonisation in New Zealand.

In 1838, French whaler Jean François Langlois claimed to have purchased much of Banks Peninsula from twelve Māori chiefs, planning a settlement supported by the Nanto-Bordelaise Company. In August 1840, 57 settlers—mainly French and German—arrived to find HMS Britomart and the Union Jack already in place, as Britain had proclaimed sovereignty over all of New Zealand just weeks earlier. Despite initial disputes over land ownership, Akaroa developed as a hybrid community, with French street names, a French mayor, doctors, and courts, alongside British settlers who soon claimed their share of the port and farmland. Today, traces of this heritage remain strong in the architecture and culture.

Akaroa evolved into a thriving holiday haven by the late 19th and early 20th centuries, its waterfront lined with general stores, wharves, and fishing vessels. The historic Daly’s Wharf, built in the 1860s, still welcomes boats, while the restored Akaroa Lighthouse—moved from its rugged original site in 1980—offers a glimpse into maritime history. Churches such as Saint Peter’s Anglican and Trinity Presbyterian, along with the Akaroa Museum’s colonial artefacts, preserve the layered past of Māori, French, and British settlement. Beyond the heritage, Akaroa is famed for the Hector’s dolphins of its marine reserve, with boat tours allowing visitors to swim alongside these rare creatures.

Modern Akaroa, with around 780 residents, retains a relaxed pace but remains a popular cruise ship stop—especially after the 2011 earthquakes closed nearby Lyttelton port. Visitors stroll its boutique-lined waterfront, explore volcanic landscapes like Ōnawe Peninsula, and enjoy local cuisine often reflecting its French roots. Whether for its rich history, coastal beauty, or wildlife encounters, Akaroa stands as one of New Zealand’s most distinctive towns—a place where a French flag once flew, but where diverse influences now blend into a uniquely Kiwi charm.